Catchcan Addendum....

[zip]

As you guys know I'm running an open atmosphere crankcase ventilation. Over the past days, I've learned that the slash cut on the valve cover isn't as effective on evacuating gases as drilling another straight hole on the valve cover. Instead of drilling a hole on the valve cover I performed this mod:




Here are the parts I used:




So far so good, this mod will help the crankcase vapors exit faster into the open atmosphere catchcan.

[Mr Rogers]

Good thinking Zip, now can you get us a shot of the can and how your lines are ran? Also what kind of hose is that? It looks way better then the plainold rubber sh*t we usually are religated to use. My can should be here in the next couple days so I can relieve my poor intake track of the oil

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type

[zip]

Thanks Javin! The picts of the catchcan setup can be found at my photopoint account, I took numerous photos of it here: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=190061

The hose I use is just hose that you can buy at Home Depot. It was the only 3/8" hose they had at the time, so I bought about 15 feet of it at $0.33 per foot. The hose is rated at 45psi, it doesn't really matter since the vapors don't really reach that pressure anyway.

BTW, your running AGX's right? How do you like them, please elaborate. Thanks.

[Holden]

Zip: I checked your photos, but didn't see where the catch can is installed. I've been thinking of attaching it to the charcoal cannister. There seems to be plenty of room and the hoses will route there nicely.

Was there something in particular that made you decide you needed better crankcase evacuation? Or did you run into some theoretical information on the subject and aimed for perfection?

I also have AGX's and I'm very happy with them. Setting them on 1/1 feels only moderately less comfortable than stock. I've been on 2/3 for a few weeks now (never set them back after the last auto-x!) and don't notice it much anymore. I haven't tried the 4 setting. The only time I can hear them is when the rears are on 1 and my backseat is down and no deck cover. I hear the rear shocks go "pshh" when I hit a bump on this setting.

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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC, I/H/E, yada yada yada...
My JRSC Install Site

[zip]

Hey thanks for the info on the AGX's Holden. I chose to perform this mod because TOO mentioned more evacuation helps in adding horsepower. Here are the picts of where I installed the can:


I installed on a bracket near the starter.


I had to improvise and alter an "L" bracket to mount the can on top of the starter.




This is a shot from below.

[Holden]

Thanks for the pics.

I don't see how the opening shape will influence crankcase evacuation, since the only forces pushing air out will be pressure from blow-by gasses.

Greg

[CivicR]

Im not doubting the mod...but has anyone gotten before and after HP numbers yet??....how much of a difference in HP are we talking here??

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John
Hey what you got in there??(In a redneck voice)
Oh just a Intake, Header and Exhaust
B18C1 powered Civic EX Coupe
'92 Civic VX Hatch...being prepared for MAD BOOST!

[Holden]

I'm not thinking about HP gains, only detonation prevention.

I'm aiming for 6psi + 94 octane + catch-can + 12 degrees timing.

zip has more ambitious goals!

Greg

[Mr Rogers]

Well I guess I should head over to home Depot to get some supplies. That is were you got the brass too right? As for the struts, I really like them. They are easy to adjust and feel great. The only complaint I have in the suspension department is on my GC's. I think the rates I chose were perfect 350f/275r but I think the shortness of the actual spring makes it bounce a little. It is not that bad but I wish it didn't have the bounce to it. It's all good though Hey, how do you know if your strut might be blown? It is really hard to figure this out with such stiff springs so I don't really know, maybe it isn't the sring hieght but the strut that is the problem.

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type

[zip]

MrRogers I got the fittings at Orchards Hardware, but I'm sure Home Depot carries them as well.

To determine if your shocks are blown look for oil leakage, or if you go over a bump and the car oscillates instead of the usual thump. In your case the AGX may not be at fault because your GC spring rate may be too stiff for the AGX's to dampen.